Traditional dishes and sweets made using recipes passed down from generation to generation.
In southern La Guajira, the landscape changes, and so does the food. The arid areas of the north give way to rivers and farmland, with the Sierra Nevada on one side and the Serranía del Perijá running alongside much of the route. This is the part of the department with the most arable land, and that shows on the table: corn, cheese, native chicken, taro, plantains, cassava, beans, and fruits that are turned into homemade sweets.
The cuisine here is different from that of the north. Goat is still a staple, but it shares the spotlight with rustic country dishes, arepa and cheese for breakfast, rice stews, and a tradition of sweet treats that is celebrated with particular enthusiasm during Holy Week. If you’re planning to visit San Juan del Cesar, Villanueva, or Urumita, these are some of the flavors worth seeking out.
In this part of La Guajira, corn features prominently in everyday cuisine, appearing in arepas, bollos, and other traditional dishes. One of the simplest ways to try it is with a freshly grilled arepa and local queso fresco.
The recipe varies from town to town and even from household to household. Some are made with white corn, and others with yellow corn; some are thicker, and others have more cheese. There isn’t just one version, so it’s worth trying more than one during your trip.
Malangada is one of those dishes that doesn’t always appear on a menu. It’s a stew made with free-range chicken, slowly simmered with onion, garlic, chili peppers, vinegar, and achiote oil, to which taro is added so it absorbs the flavors of the dish.
In Urumita, this is one of the most iconic dishes, and it’s prepared to share with family or serve to guests. Since it isn’t cooked every day, it’s a good idea to ask upon arrival if any local restaurants or kitchens have it available.
“Libro” rice is a staple in the everyday cuisine of San Juan residents and is especially traditional for Sunday lunches. Its name comes from the “libro,” one of the parts of a cow’s stomach, which is carefully cleaned and cooked until tender.
It is then mixed with a sauce made from sweet peppers, scallions, garlic, Creole vinegar, and achiote oil. The rice is cooked with the mixture until it is moist and full of flavor. In San Juan del Cesar, it is usually served with boiled cassava.
It isn’t one of the dishes most often featured in travel guides, and that’s exactly why it’s worth trying: it’s part of home cooking and one of the recipes that are still a part of everyday life in the region.
What about the typical goat dish?
You’ll also find it roasted or stewed, as it is a staple of the cuisine throughout the department. However, if you’re coming from the Alta Guajira and have already tried friche, your journey through the south is a great opportunity to discover native chicken, malanga, arroz de libro, and local cheese.
In the south, it’s common to end lunch with something sweet. Papaya, coconut, milk, ripe plantains, pineapple, and guava are turned into preserves, panelitas, and homemade sweets. Some are creamy and others firmer, and they’re sold in small portions or in larger containers that many travelers take home with them.
In Guayacanal, one of the districts of San Juan del Cesar, there are still women who make traditional sweets. They learned the recipes from their mothers and grandmothers and continue to prepare them over a wood burning stove. During Holy Week, it’s common to find a wider variety, so it’s worth taking a stroll through town to see what’s being prepared that day.
Villanueva is known for vallenato music and the Cuna de Acordeones Festival, and it’s also a great place to stop for lunch while traveling along the southern corridor. There, you’ll find home-cooked meals, arepas, cheeses, and sweets prepared by local families.
The visit can easily be combined with a tour of the town and its musical tradition, one of the most renowned in this part of La Guajira.
Many of the best dishes in the south aren’t found in restaurants or on booking platforms. Some are sold out of people’s homes, others are cooked only on certain days, and some dishes are made to order. So, if you’re interested in trying something specific, it’s a good idea to check in advance. It’s also advisable to bring cash, especially in rural towns and small businesses.
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